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The Mental Side of Golf


Changing Gears  by Scott Kramer

Adjusting to New Clubs Takes Patience and a Plan

  You've recently bought a new club-or maybe an entire set-and the first time out, your game wasn't miraculously better.  Don't panic.  Most golfers-even the pros-have to go through an adjustment period with new sticks.  Here's how to smooth out your "getting acquainted" period.

                                                     FIRST THINGS FIRST
   Whether you're switching woods, irons, wedges, or a putter, remember this:  Timing is everything.  If you change clubs when you're playing or swinging poorly (and expect the clubs to cure your slump), you'll be frustrated when your bad swing habits carry over to the new equipment.  It's unrealistic to expect any club to fix, or compensate for, your swing flaws.  So change clubs only when your game is in a good groove.

   Once your swing is sound, you're ready to proceed.  If possible, keep your old clubs around until the adjustment period is over to help you acclimate to their replacements.  Keep in mind also that a golf pro may help you get the most out of the fine-tuning process.

                                                             PUTTER
   Many experts agree that a new putter is the easiest club to adjust to.  It also also has the biggest psychological impact on your game.  The puttting stroke is so simple and precise, and the putter's visual function-the look of the head and the face, its size and feel-is key to a golfer's confidence and feel.

   If you're contemplating a major overhaul, it may be wise to start with the putter.  You'll see an immediate change, which will prepare and inspire you for further alterations.  When breaking in a new putter, practice with it as much as you can, from all distances.  And use the same type of ball you normally play to get used to the feel.

                                                              DRIVER
   If the putter is the easiest club to change, the driver likely is the toughest. Why?  Expectations.  You're probably trying to gain distance off the tee, which is fine as long as you don't lose control or consistency.  You'll certainly have to get use to one or more factors:  club head size: shaft length, flex, or material; sweet spot size and location; even how high you tee the ball.

   Getting use to a huge club head is a big psychological factor.  Pros advise overcoming a club's immenseness by going to the range and sticking impact tape on the face to see exactly where contact is being made.  You may need to adjust how close you stand to the ball at address.  A large club head also tends to make golfers over swing in an effort to crush the tee shot.  Instead, try slowing your tempo.  The latest driver shafts are lighter and longer, but they twist less at impact.  So take an easy swing, and let the shaft and club do the work for you.

                                                      FAIRWAY WOODS
   For most players, the 3-wood is a war horse:  Good players use it to hit par fives in two and off the tee on narrow holes; high handicappers make it their driver and often hit it again on the second shot.  It's important to test your 3-wood at the range and be sure that the combination of shaft flex and clubface loft get the ball airborne quickly, from both the tee and grass.  If either causes you trouble, have a club fitter tweak the club until you see positive feedback.

   If you've added a high-lofted fairway wood, such a a 7 or 9-wood, remember to hit down on the ball like you would with an iron.  Play it in a 4-iron ball position and the wide sole won't get caught in the grass.  Most misses with fairway woods are thin shots that result from upper-sweeping swings.  If you hit down on a steeper angle, it'll get up quickly.

   If you are trading in a fairway wood for an iron-wood hybrid club, you may need to adjust to a lighter, shorter shaft.  Plus, hybrid clubs have more offset.  Most golfers will set up with the clubface aiming too far left, trying to make it similar to their fairway woods.  But that's too far forward in your stance for hybrids.  Instead, play it back farther in your stance.

                                                             IRONS
   Your approach to new irons should be different than it is to woods.  Set realistic goals.  for most golfers, that means not trying for extra yardage, but expecting more accuracy and consistency.

   To hit irons straighter, you need to swing slowly and smoothly.  Take the old and the new clubs to a familiar spot, either a par-three hole where you can practice, or the driving range.  Start by hitting your favorite iron from the old set.  Don't try to kill it; just hit it until you've grooved a comfortable swing.  Then take the corresponding club from the new set and  the same.  Once you're cozy with both, alternate shots to establish a realistic distance comparison between the two.  That way, you won't press to get the most from your new club.  Repeat the process with each iron in the set.

                                                           WEDGES
   With a new wedge, you may need to adjust to a different sole width, bounce angle, head shape, and loft.  The key is finding out how far, high, and straight a wedge goes from different lies and with swings of different lengths.  Wedges will play differently from the fringe, rough, and bunkers.  Find an area where you practice lots of shots with each wedge, to establish a comfort zone.

   With any new club, it is important to be patient.  It probably will be at least six weeks before you see dramatic results.  Golfers expect too much too soon, thinking they will get immediate results.  You may actually progress backward at first.  Changes-such as going to a super sized driver or from steel shafts to graphite-can affect your timing.  Therefore give yourself a realistic adjustment period, and make the most of it so you can make the most of your new clubs. 


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